Double River Waterfall Hike & Brasso Seco Food Festival
For outdoor enthusiasts, the village of Brasso Seco is the perfect place to stay when visiting Trinidad. Nestled deep within the forests of the Northern Range, this secluded village is just a short drive away from popular outdoor attractions like Avocat Waterfall, and the Paria Waterfall and Beach. Even closer is Double River Waterfall, which could be accessed via a short walk through the forest from the village.
The hike to Double River Waterfall begins at the Brasso Seco Community Center and follows a dirt road that winds through several small cocoa estates, some of which are now abandoned and being reclaimed by the rainforest. The road narrows, and eventually arrives at the banks of a small river that must be followed upstream to arrive at the waterfall. Some bends in the river are deep enough for swimming and have sandy shores and emerald water that reflects the leaves overhead. These serene spots are ideal for taking a brief pause and simply enjoying being immersed in nature. These bends in the river are in the middle of pristine rainforest, surrounded by towering immortelle trees, and lush lianas and ferns. The only sounds are the trees swaying in the wind, and the water against the rocks.
At a place where the river splits into two, the trail continues uphill on land before finally arriving at the waterfall. The name Double River Waterfall is actually due to the fact that the final part of the trail begins at the confluence of these two streams. Unlike some of the more popular waterfalls in Trinidad like Rincon Falls or Rampanalgas Waterfall, there isn’t a deep plunge pool at Double River Falls and the water is never more than waist-deep. There is also less tree cover over this waterfall compared to others, so the water here is never as cold. It’s ideal for relaxing, particularly since this waterfall seems to be less popular with weekend hikers.
On the return hike to the village, it is possible to arrange a meal in advance and have it ready when you arrive at the Brasso Seco Community Center. During events like the Brasso Seco Food Festival, or the Cocoa and Culinary Festival however, arrangements don’t need to be made since there is a wide range of local vendors selling traditionally cooked meals. These meals feature meat that is smoked on a framework of sticks placed about three feet over a wood fire, and then covered with banana leaves. The meat typically includes chicken and pork, as well as game animals like deer and armadillo. This method of cooking has been practiced by the indigenous people of the Caribbean and Central America for thousands of years, and was a major influence on the development of Jamaican Jerk and Carolina Barbecue.
The smoked meat is served alongside side dishes like stewed lentils, and corn pie, which is a dish similar to polenta that is made with cornmeal, cheese, and spices. In addition to full boxes of food, vendors also sell pastelles, which is a type of tamale cooked in a banana leaf instead of a corn husk, and bread that was freshly baked in an earthen oven.
Beverages that can be enjoyed alongside the food includes freshly brewed cocoa and coffee that is grown, harvested, fermented, and roasted right there in Brasso Seco. There is also wine made from the fruity pulp of the cacao pod. This type of fermented cocoa wine has been made in Central America and South America for thousands of years, and it tastes similar to a strong ale or a fortified wine. There is also a creamy libation called Ponche Creme, although this is probably better suited for dessert. Ponche Creme is popular in the Southern Caribbean, and is typically enjoyed during the holiday season. There are many regional recipes of Ponche Creme that use varied ingredients like Angostura Bitters, pistachios, and flan, but in the cocoa cultivating villages in Trinidad, a chocolate variety is popular.
The ideal option for dessert though, is the locally made chocolate bars. One hundred years ago, Trinidad produced around one fifth of the global chocolate supply. The industry has declined significantly, but farmers now focus on a varietal called Trinitario Cocoa that is known for a fruity and lightly spicy flavor with very low acidity. Leading chocolatiers around the world use small amounts of Trinitario Cocoa to bring additional flavor to their confections. In Brasso Seco, most chocolate is made entirely with Trinitario Cocoa, and the local chocolate is redolent with notes of ripe forest fruit, and an earthy note instead of the bitterness that is typical of dark chocolate. Brasso Seco Chocolates are made with cacao nibs or village grown robusta coffee in the chocolate, so that it’s a creamy yet crunchy treat. This brand is part of a larger initiative for cocoa farmers to develop chocolates that channel the terroir of the region in Trinidad where they’re grown. This initiative doesn’t only assist the cocoa industry, it helps communities like Brasso Seco grow into unique tourist destinations.
Brasso Seco is unlike anywhere else in Trinidad. It’s the only place where a hike through the forest could be followed by food that includes traditionally smoked meat, local small batch chocolate, and more.
