Pumpkin spice season and the Starbucks Pumpkin Spice Latte might be relatively new trends, having only become  massive cultural phenomena in the last decade or so. Pumpkin Ales fit in nicely with these fall trends, but they are actually centuries older and deeply rooted in autumn brewing traditions. The modern Pumpkin Ale actually brings together two old autumn brewing traditions, and in a sense represents the perfect American autumn beer.

Märzen & Oktoberfest

In the mid-sixteenth century, brewers in Bavaria made a malty, dark lager in March that was destined to be drunk during the summer months. This beer was known as Märzen or Märzenbier, which was German for “March Beer”. During this era, brewing was forbidden from April to September since the warm weather often led to unwanted flavors in the beer. As the new brewing season began on the final day in September, vats of Märzen were drunk during the citywide drinking festivals that would eventually be known as Oktoberfest. Two centuries later, Oktoberfest would grow into a major event with horse racing, tree climbing, and beer drinking contests. The beer consumed during this festival included the dark, malty, and sweet Märzen, as well as a slightly lighter, but similar beer known as Festbier. Many breweries now refer to both styles, or any modern beer inspired by those styles as Oktoberfest Beer.

An Oktoberfest Style Lager brewed with Toasted Coconut from Concrete Beach Brewery.
An Oktoberfest Style Lager brewed with Toasted Coconut from Concrete Beach Brewery.

At the same time on the other side of the Atlantic, the American beer industry was taking shape. Pioneers like Adolph Coors, Adolphus Busch, and Frederick Pabst were all of German origin, and would have been aware of Märzen, Festbier, and other traditional German beers. The story of American beer however, began long before they were even born; and it involved Pumpkin Ales.

Early American Pumpkin Beer

The decision of the Pilgrims to land on Plymouth Rock in 1620 was due to the fact that provisions on the Mayflower were slowly running out. William Bradford, the leader of the party that took to shore mentioned beer first in the list of food that were running low. According to Gregg Smith in his book on the history of American beer; “It was no accident that Bradford listed beer first. Beer occupied a prominent place in daily life.” Naturally, a small brewery was among the first structures built in the infant colony, and the colonists immediately began experimenting with methods of brewing their own beer with local ingredients. Native Americans introduced them to corn and pumpkins, which were both suitable for making beer with. While there is dispute over some historical facts, it’s almost certain that at the first Thanksgiving Feast, the pilgrims would have eaten turkey meat and drank Pumpkin Beer.

Post Road Pumpkin Ale alongside a Turkey Burger with Caramelized Onions and Cranberry Glaze.
Post Road Pumpkin Ale alongside a Turkey Burger with Caramelized Onions and Cranberry Glaze.

Pumpkin went on to become a popular ingredient in early American beer, as evidenced by a poem from 1630 that suggested “pumpkins, and parsnips, and walnut-tree chips” as substitutes for barley. Beer historian Dane Huckelbridge cites that poem as “evidence of just how far back those pumpkin-flavored fall microbrews really go.”

By the next century, trade and agriculture had improved significantly, and both molasses and barley became common ingredients in brewing. The beer of this era was modeled after British styles like stout, porter, and barley wine. Pumpkin was declining in popularity during this period, but it is entirely possible that someone might have brewed the first Pumpkin Pie Porter at this point in history. Over the course of several decades however, the British influenced ales would slowly give way to German style lager beer.

Around 1820, immigrants from Germany became the largest ethnic group entering the United States, as one out of three immigrants coming to the country was of German descent. In this same period, improvements in shipping allowed for lager yeasts to be introduced to America for the first time. Due to the sensitivity of lager yeast to higher temperatures, and because of the influx of German brewers moving to the United States and introducing their methods, the German tradition of not brewing during the summer months was adopted in America. This led to a brief period in the middle of the nineteenth century when Märzen and Festbier would have been made by American breweries. Making Märzen eventually came to an end due to the advent of refrigeration, and a developing American taste for pilsner beer, and other light lagers. Prohibition, as well as the Great Depression and two World Wars would all contribute to American beer becoming increasingly light and thin. Pumpkin Ales became part of the past, and Märzen was mostly forgotten.

Modern Pumpkin Ales

The modern craft beer movement took off in California during the 1970s as a reaction to the beer in America being seen as bland and uninteresting by a new generation of drinkers. In 1971, Anchor Brewing Company in San Francisco began brewing and bottling an older American style of beer called California Common, as well as old world ales like barley wine and porter. A few years later, and a few miles away in the Sacramento Valley, Sierra Nevada Brewing Company would introduce their iconic pale ale and forever change the history of American beer. In Haywood, California, Buffalo Bill’s Brewery would reintroduce America to the Pumpkin Ale in 1985. Founder Bill Owen was intrigued after reading about how George Washington used to brew beer with pumpkins, and he decided to try it. He grew his own gourds, roasted them in a pizza oven and proceeded to make an ale with it. Upon realizing that there was no noticeable pumpkin taste, he added a can of pumpkin spice mix in order to evoke the flavor of a fresh baked pumpkin pie.

Pizza with Samuel Adams Fat Jack Double Pumpkin Ale Beer
Pizza with Samuel Adams Fat Jack Double Pumpkin Ale Beer

On the other side of America, the Boston Brewing Company had started brewing a rich, malty modern Märzen made with their unique ale yeast and blend of malt. Sometime later, they would introduce a pumpkin beer using the same malts and yeast as the Märzen, in a sense marrying two separate autumn beer traditions. This set the precedent for a Märzen-inspired beer, brewed with pumpkin, and seasoned with pumpkin spice becoming the quintessential autumn beer in America. It’s a style of beer with potential for future innovations, and a wide range of inspiration that still pays respect to the Märzens, Oktoberfests, and Pumpkin Ales of the past.

Good Gourd Imperial Pumpkin Ale from Cigar City Brewing Company.

The perfect Pumpkin Ale brings the sweetness and maltiness of a Märzen, and matches that with the slight burn of pumpkin spices and strong ale. The sweetness and spice balance each other, and they bring together centuries of fall brewing traditions in a single beer. It’s the perfect autumn beer.